Votos - 2, Puntuación media: 4.5
(
)
)
|
Resumen del manual
Always wear the required harness for the unit and be sure it is properly worn and secured. Adjust the shoulder harness to your body, and balance the assembled unit from the harness as instructed on page 12. Inspect the blades before use. The teeth must be sharp and there must be no cracks in the steel. Dull blades increase the risk of blade kick out reactions. Small cracks may grow to where a piece of the blade may fly off during operation. WARNING DANGER • Do not cut with dull, cracked or damaged metal blade. • Before cutting growth, inspect for obstructions such as boulders, metal stakes or strands of wire from broken fences. If an obstruction cannot be removed, mark its location so that you can avoid it with the blade. Rocks and metal will dull or damage a blade. Wires can catch on the blade head and flap around or be thrown into the air. NUT AND COTTER PIN COLLAR UPPER ADAPTER PLATE (COLLAR) LOCKING TOOL HOLE BRACE METAL BLADE DEBRIS SHIELD BLADE COTTER PIN NUT LOWER ADAPTER PLATE (COLLAR) WARNING DANGER A metal blade SRM unit must have the items shown on page 9. These include either a bar handle or U-handle, a metal debris shield, a shoulder harness and a blade-retaining nut and cotter pin. These items are obtainable from your ECHO dealer who sold you your unit. WIRES CAN CATCH AND FLAP AROUND SCYTHING WEEDS CLOCKWISE KICKOUT COUNTERCLOCKWISE KICKOUT OBJECT KICKOUT (BLADE THRUST) SRM SERIES COUNTERCLOCKWISE ROTATION PULL PUSH OBJECT ON LEFT OBJECT ON RIGHT GT SERIES CLOCKWISE ROTATION PULL PUSH OBJECT ON LEFT OBJECT ON RIGHT S CLOCKWISE ROTATION PULL PUSH OBJECT ON LEFT OBJECT ON RIGHT SRM SERIES COUNTERCLOCKWISE ROTATION PUSH PULL OBJECT ON LEFT OBJECT ON RIGHT KICKOUT (BLADE THRUST) SCYTHING WEEDS CLOCKWISE KICKOUT COUNTERCLOCKWISE KICKOUT OBJECT DO NOT TOUCH THESE TYPES OF OBJECTS WITH THE BLADE UTILITY WIRES METAL STAKES RUBBER ROCKS MASONRY METAL FENCE WARNING DANGER Be sure you understand the reaction forces of push and pull, and kickout (also called blade thrust), described in this manual, and how these forces may affect your balance in the operation of a bladed unit. REACTION FORCES PUSH. The operator feels the unit push toward him when he tries to saw with the blade on the side where the teeth are moving away from him. If he cannot hold the blade in the cut, a kickout may occur when the blade is pushed out to where the teeth at the outside furthest point from the operator are cutting. The blade will “kick out” sideways. KICKOUT. This blade-thrust reaction may occur when the moving blade at the front of the blade circle contacts strong brush or trees. The force that occurs pushes the entire unit and blade violently away in an arc. Kickout is a danger to a bystander and also a jolting force to the operator. PULL. The opposite of push. When the part of the blade where the teeth are moving toward the operator is used for cutting, the reaction is a pull away from the operator. Although this pull type of cutting may cause sawdust to be thrown back at the operator, it is recommended for sawing of heavy brush because the cutting is smoother and more stable than when the unit pushes. NOTE The direction of the kickout will depend on what unit model you are using. A curved-shaft GT model employs a clockwise rotation of its cutting head and will kickout to the left of the operator. The straight-shaft SRM employs a counter-clockwise rotation of its cutting head and will kickout to the right of the operator. USING WEED BLADES SCYTHING WEEDS. This is cutting by swinging the blade in a level arc. It can quickly clear areas of field grass and weeds. Scything should not be used to cut large, tough weeds or woody growths. NOTE Do not use a weed blade to cut brush or trees which exceed a diameter of 1/2 to 3/4 inches. Scything can be done in both directions, or just in one way which results in the debris being thrown away from you. That is using the side of the blade that it is rotating away from you. Tilt down the blade slightly on this same side. You will be hit by some debris if you scythe in both directions. SAWING. This must be done when weeds are too thick and strong for scything. Cut only with the side of the blade that is moving away from you. If kickout keeps happening, the blade may be dull, or the material so thick and hard that you should use a Brush Blade instead of the Weed Blade. USING BRUSH BLADES WARNING DANGER Brush Blades must be sharp. Dull blades require replacement or professional resharpening. Do not try to sharpen Brush Blades yourself. There are two ways to cut with a Brush Blade: scything and sawing. The way you should choose depends on the hardness and size of the brush or trees to be cut down. Only very small, thin brush should be scythed. Never hack at brush or trees. NOTE THAT OUR RECOMMENDATION FOR CUTTING WITH BRUSH BLADES IS THE OPPOSITE OF THAT DESCRIBED FOR WEED BLADES. Growth up to 3-inches in diameter, which is too thick for scything, may be cut by sawing. Sawing requires judg...