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Manual de usuario Grizzly, modelo H7757

Fabricar: Grizzly
Tamaño del archivo: 2.07 mb
Nombre del archivo: 66bc4de0-3c6b-4e92-a77b-f7fcea9f4211.pdf
Idioma del manual:en
Enlace gratuito para este manual disponible en la parte inferior de la página



Resumen del manual


Model H7757 3" Mini Wool Buffer -11 Wheel Selection The Model H7757 only accepts Type 1 3" x 1.2" wheels with a 1.4" bore. Aluminum oxide and silicon carbide wheels are marked in a somewhat uniform manner by all major manufacturers. Understanding these markings will help you understand the capabilities of various wheels. Always refer to the manufacturer’s grinding recommendations when selecting a wheel for your project. The basic format for wheel numbering is: Prefix Abrasive Type Grit Size Grade Type Bond Type Type 1 A 60 L V The Prefix is the manufacturer’s designation for a particular standardized type of grinding wheel. Different Type prefixes indicate different wheel shapes and designs. For more information on wheel types, ask a person with grinding experience or consult your local library. The most common Abrasive Types used are A for Aluminum Oxide and C for Silicon Carbide, and occasionally SG for Seeded Gel. The Grit Size is a number that refers to the size of the abrasive grain in the wheel. The lower the number, the coarser the wheel. Grit sizes range from 10, which is a very coarse grit used for roughing, to 220, which is usually the upper range for fine finish work. Grade Type is an indication of the hardness of the wheel—“A” being the softest and “Z” being the hardest. Bond Type refers to the type of bonding material used to hold the abrasive material. Most general purpose wheels will have a “V” indicating Vitrified Clay is used. Vitrified Clay provides high strength and good porosity. The other common bond type is “B” for resin where synthetic resins are used. These are used to grind cemented carbide and ceramic materials. There may be other numbers inserted that have meaning for a particular type of wheel. Refer to the wheel manufacturer’s technical data for a complete explanation. Wheel Inspection Thehazardsofusingadamaged grinding wheel include flying chunks of sharp abrasive material that could cause serious injury or death. Inspect everygrindingwheelbeforeitis mounted and DO NOTuse a damaged grinding wheel! Before mounting a new grinding wheel, it must be inspected. DO NOT assume that a wheel is in sound condition just because it is new—often, damage can occur during shipping, with age, or with exposure to moisture. First, the wheel should be given a Visual Inspection. Look for any cracks, chips, nicks, or dents in the surface of the wheel. If you see any of these, DO NOT use the wheel. Second, the wheel should be given a Ring Test. This test will give you an indication of any internal damage that may not be obvious during a visual inspection. -12-Model H7757 3" Mini Wool Buffer Model H7757 3" Mini Wool Buffer -13- To remove/mount a wheel: 1. DISCONNECT THE MACHINE FROM THE POWER SUPPLY! 2. Remove the three Phillips head screws and tooth washers that go through the outer guard, and take off the outer guard. 3. Use a wrench on the nut that holds the wheel on the arbor. Hold the wheel from turning with your other hand. Note: The left end of the arbor has a left-handed thread, so loosening the nut will require turning it clockwise. 4. Remove the outer wheel flange and paper disc. Pull the wheel free from the arbor. There will also be a paper disc and a wheel flange on the back side of the wheel which should also be removed. 5. Mount the new wheel in the reverse order that you removed it or as shown in Figure 8. Always make certain there are paper or fiber discs between the wheel flanges and the wheel itself. Tighten the nut snugly but DO NOT over-tighten. Over-tightening can crack a grinding wheel. Replacing Wheels The wheel guard assembly must be removed in order to mount or dismount a buffing or grinding wheel. Figure 8. Wheel mounting order. Flange Hex Nut Wheel Paper/Fiber Disc Paper/Fiber Disc Flange To perform a Ring Test: 1. Make sure the wheel that you test is clean and dry; otherwise, you may get false results. 2. Hang the wheel in the air with a piece of cord or string looped through the hole in the center. 3. At the spots shown in Figure 7, gently tap the wheel with a light nonmetallic device such as the handle of a screwdriver or a wooden mallet. 4. An undamaged wheel will emit a clear metallic ring or “ping” sound in each of these spots. A damaged wheel will respond with a dull thud that has no clear tone. 5. If you determine from the ring test that the wheel is damaged, DO NOT use it! Figure 7. Ring test tapping locations. NEVER assemble a grinding wheel on the arbor without paper or fiber discs between the wheel and the flanges. Failure to include the paper or fiber discs can result in damage to the wheel and cause it to fail when at speed, causing serious injury! NEVER assemble a grinding wheel on the arbor without paper or fiber discs between the wheel and the flanges. Failure to include the paper or fiber discs can result in damage to the wheel and cause it to fail when at speed, causing serious injury! 6. Re-install the guards and shields. 7. Run a new wheel for at least ...


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