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Manual de usuario Burnham, modelo LEDV SERIES

Fabricar: Burnham
Tamaño del archivo: 1.14 mb
Nombre del archivo: 7b64d4bf-2a09-49ac-bf38-651685186ea2.pdf
Idioma del manual:en
Enlace gratuito para este manual disponible en la parte inferior de la página



Resumen del manual


NOTE: Bleeding might not be necessary with a two pipe system. When vent fitting is closed, burner flame should start immediately. 8. ADJUST OIL PRESSURE a. Locate oil pressure adjusting screw and turn screw to obtain 140 PSIG pressure. b. DO NOT REMOVE PRESSURE GAUGE until later. 9. ADJUST AIR SETTING on burner for a light orange colored flame. Use a smoke tester and adjust air for minimum smoke (not to exceed #1) with a minimum of excess air. Make final check using suitable instrumentation to obtain a CO2 of 11.5 to 12.5%. These settings will assure a safe and efficient operating condition. If the flame appears stringy instead of a solid fire, try another nozzle of the same type. Flame should be solid and compact. 10. TURN "OFF" BURNER BY OPENING SERVICE SWITCH. Remove pressure gauge. Install gauge port plug and tighten. Re-start burner. 11. HINTS ON COMBUSTION a. NOZZLES — Although the nozzle is a relatively inexpensive device, its function is critical to the successful operation of the oil burner. The selection of the nozzle supplied with the microTEKDV boiler is the result of extensive testing to obtain the best flame shape and efficient combustion. Other brands of the same spray angle and spray pattern may be used but may not perform at the expected level of CO2 and smoke. Nozzles are delicate and should be protected from dirt and abuse. Nozzles are mass-produced and can vary from sample to sample. For all of those reasons a spare nozzle is a desirable item for a serviceman to have. b. FLAME SHAPE — Looking into the combustion chamber through the flame plug hole, the flame should appear straight with no sparklers rolling up toward the top of the chamber. If the flame drags to the right or left, sends sparklers upward or makes wet spots on the rear door insulation piece, the nozzle should be replaced. If the condition persists look for fuel leaks, air leaks, water or dirt in the fuel as described below. c. FUEL LEAKS — Any fuel leak between the pump and the nozzle will be detrimental to good combustion results. Look for wet surfaces in the air tube, under the transformer, and around the air inlet. Any such leaks should be repaired as they may cause erratic burning of the fuel and in the extreme case may become a fire hazard. d. AIR LEAKS — Any such leaks should be repaired, as they may cause erratic burning of the fuel and in extreme cases may become a fire hazard. There are many possible causes of air leaks in oil lines such as: 23 i. Fitting leaks due to mis-flared tubing or damaged fitting. ii. Fuel line leak due to crushed or bent tubing. iii. Filter connection leaks. iv. Tank connection leaks. There are various test kits available to trace air leaks, such as electronic sight glasses. Follow the manufacturers' instructions to find air leaks. The following actions can eliminate air leaks: i. Bleed pump as detailed in System Start-Up Section of this manual. ii. Replace flare fittings. iii. Replace oil supply line. iv. Repair oil filter leaks. v. Replace or repair tank fittings. e. GASKET LEAKS — If 11.5 to 12.5% CO2 with a #1 smoke cannot be obtained in the breeching, look for air leaks around the flue collar. Such air leaks will cause a lower CO2 reading in the breeching. The smaller the firing rate the greater effect an air leak can have on CO2 readings. f. DIRT — A fuel filter is a good investment. Accidental accumulation of dirt in the fuel system can clog the nozzle or nozzle strainer and produce a poor spray pattern from the nozzle. The smaller the firing rate, the smaller the slots become in the nozzle and the more prone to plugging it becomes with the same amount of dirt. g. WATER — Water in the fuel in large amounts will stall the fuel pump. Water in the fuel in smaller amounts will cause excessive wear on the pump, but more importantly water doesn’t burn. It chills the flame and causes smoke and unburned fuel to pass out of the combustion chamber and clog the flueways of the boiler. h. COLD OIL — If the oil temperature approaching the fuel pump is 40°F or lower poor combustion or delayed ignition may result. Cold oil is harder to atomize at the nozzle. Thus, the spray droplets get larger and the flame shape gets longer. An outside fuel tank that is above grade or has fuel lines in a shallow bury is a good candidate for cold oil. The best solution is to bury the tank and lines deep enough to keep the oil above 40°F. i. HIGH ALTITUDE INSTALLATIONS — Air settings must be increased at higher altitudes. Use instruments and set for 11.5 to 12.5% CO2. j. START-UP NOISE — Late ignition is the cause of start-up noises. If it occurs recheck for electrode settings, flame shape, air or water in the fuel lines. k. SHUT DOWN NOISE — If the flame runs out of air before it runs out of fuel, an after burn with noise may occur. That may be the result of a faulty cut-off valve in the fuel pump, or it may be air trapped in the nozzle line. It may take several firing cycles for that air to be fully vented throug...


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