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Resumen del manual
The following instructions apply to both types, unless otherwise specified. 1. To reach the combustor, first take out the flame impingement plate by removing the four (4) 3/8” brass nuts (they take a 9/16” wrench). Once the nuts are removed the plate should drop from the four bolts. This will allow you to see the bottom of your catalytic combustor. 2. For 25-cell Applied Ceramics combustor: If the combustor is plugged up you will see black soot within the cells on the bottom side of the ceramic piece. This can usually be removed by brushing the combustor with a soft bristled brush. You can also run a pipe stem cleaner through each cell for removal of any internal build-up. This type cleaning can be done without removing the combustor from the stove. 3. For 1” thick Clear Skies combustor: Follow the instructions provided by Clear Skies pertaining to the cleaning of their combustor. 4. The flame impingement plate (Part #IP-18PC) is held in the unit as described previously. This can be cleaned with a stiff bristled brush. 5. The combustor collar (Part #CA-1710) is also held in place by four (4) 3/8” brass nuts (they take a 9/16” wrench). The flame impingement plate must be removed before the combustor collar. Once the second set of nuts is removed the collar will come out with the catalytic combustor seated in it. Reverse this procedure to replace the collar and flame impingement plate. 6. The catalytic combustor (Part #AC-6C3) is guaranteed by the manufacturers. A separate warranty card will be in the manual for this part and should be mailed back to the combustor manufacturer. Both combustors are equivalent, and in the event there is a problem with this item, Customer Service should be contacted at 1-800-245-6489. B. Gaskets Each unit comes with a gasket around the door, which should be replaced every two years. To replace the door gasket (Part # AC-DGKC), the old gasket should first be removed entirely. This may require you to scrape the old gasket and cement from the channel before adding new cement and 3/4” rope gasket. After attaching the new gasket, close the door and allow 24 hours for the cement to harden. If you are replacing the window gasket (Part #AC-GGK), the gasket already has adhesive on one side. Remove the paper on the adhesive side and place the gasket around the outside edge of the glass. The easiest way to do this is to form a “U” with the gasket and place this around the outer perimeter of the glass. The door gasket as well as the window gasket can be ordered from your local dealer or from our factory. C. Firebrick (Part #AC-SB; 20 Required) This stove is equipped with high density, high temperature firebrick. If the brick becomes chipped or cracked, especially on the sides of the firebox, it should be replaced. The brick can be ordered from your local dealer or from the factory. D. Finish (Part #AC-MCSP; 12 oz. Spray Can) Your stove has been painted with 1200 degree Metallic Charcoal paint that will retain its original appearance for years. However, if your stove should get wet, some rust spots may appear. These can be removed with plain steel wool and touched up with new paint. If you need to repaint the unit, use our paint as other brands may not be able to withstand the high surface temperatures. This spray paint can be ordered from your local dealer or from the factory. SECTION VII: CHIMNEY AND FLUE PIPE MAINTENANCE A. Chimney System Many stove owners prefer to clean their own chimneys; however, we highly recommend a chimney sweep be contacted to do this job. A professional sweep can clean and inspect your system and in some cases spot problems that you may overlook. B. Flue Pipe Maintenance When connecting your unit to the flue system, 24 gauge or thicker pipe should be used. Your pipe should be cleaned at least once a year and inspected monthly. Most people will clean their pipe and stove at the end of the heating season as this will keep odors from entering the house during the summer months. The flue pipe should be replaced every three to five years, depending on the thickness of the pipe (thicker pipe will last longer). SECTION VIlI: THINGS THAT COULD CAUSE YOUR STOVE TO SMOKE It is very important that installations are made airtight. This is best accomplished by using furnace cement at all pipe joints and where the first section of pipe enters the stove and enters the chimney flue. Any existing air leaks will cause the air to draw at points where the least resistance is offered — such places are pipe joints, flue thimble, flue openings in the chimney, ash clean-out doors and cracks in the chimney. These areas may cause air to enter your system and not be drawn through the stove as necessary, which could result in a cool chimney, causing the smoke to build up in the system and eventually come back into the house. This is called “back puffing” and can be helped by sealing all troublesome areas so they are airtight. There are two main causes of chimney down drafts. One is from the...
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