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Step 1: Cutting Stile and Rail Edges Make sure the router is disconnected from the Top of Bead • Unplug router before power source. Install the stile and rail cutter. Outer Side installing or adjusting (C1551 or C1554.) Attach the router to your router table and adjust the height of the bit until the top of the bead is 1.16" below the top bit. • Keep all guards and anti- of your stile. See Figure A. Adjust the fence kickback devices in place. until it is flush with the bearing. (The bearing • Double check bit to insure can be used without the fence when you are nut is tight and bit is tight cutting non-linear shapes such as a curved and secure in spindle. arch door rail, however a starting pin should • Always inspect lumber and Router Table be employed to help make safe first contact to other wood materials for workpiece). The workpiece must always be fed Figure A cracks, knots, or other against the cutter rotation and the full depth of pro- imperfections that could file should be made in one pass to ensure a precise cut. If the window is not to be cause bit or lumber to kick painted, a side should be chosen for appearance and marked with a pencil. Before or shatter while milling. plugging in the router, set a piece of scrap, the same size as the workpiece, on the table appearance side up. Lay the edge to be cut firmly against the fence. A hold- down device such as a featherboard should be used to keep the workpiece secured against the fence. Make a test cut to ensure that the complete profile is being cut. Adjust, if necessary, and re-test. Run all of the stiles and rails for the project through the cutter before changing bits to do the rail ends. 529003622 © May 2003 Grizzly Industrial, Inc. Step 2: Cutting Rail Ends Unplug the router and change bits. Raise the router bit so the top of the bead is Outer Side 1.16" below the top of your stock as shown in Figure B. Make sure that the miter gauge used passes closely enough to the router bit to give the workpiece proper support. It is recommended an extension be applied to the miter with screws, if the miter is more than an inch from the bit. See Figure C. Make Fence 1.16'' sure that miter and face have working clearance so they won’t come in contact with bit. The miter gauge should also be checked for squareness to the miter slot and adjusted, if necessary. The fence should be moved away so the workpiece does not touch it during the cutting procedure. Run a test piece which is the same thickness as your actual rail stock. Test fit the rail to Router Table a finished stile to see how the joint looks. If the pieces do not fit together tightly, Figure B or if the front and back surfaces do not fit flush, it may be necessary to readjust. Make very small movements in the height of the router bit and test cut again. When the fit is properly adjusted, make the end cuts on the rails. Double check the fit occasionally, to insure accuracy. The workpiece must always be fed against the cutter rotation and the...

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