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Make a test cut to ensure that the complete profile is being cut. Adjust, if necessary, and re-test. Run all of the stiles and rails for the project through the cutter before changing bits to do the rail ends. 529003622 © May 2003 Grizzly Industrial, Inc. Step 2: Cutting Rail Ends Unplug the router and change bits. Raise the router bit so the top of the bead is Outer Side 1.16" below the top of your stock as shown in Figure B. Make sure that the miter gauge used passes closely enough to the router bit to give the workpiece proper support. It is recommended an extension be applied to the miter with screws, if the miter is more than an inch from the bit. See Figure C. Make Fence 1.16'' sure that miter and face have working clearance so they won’t come in contact with bit. The miter gauge should also be checked for squareness to the miter slot and adjusted, if necessary. The fence should be moved away so the workpiece does not touch it during the cutting procedure. Run a test piece which is the same thickness as your actual rail stock. Test fit the rail to Router Table a finished stile to see how the joint looks. If the pieces do not fit together tightly, Figure B or if the front and back surfaces do not fit flush, it may be necessary to readjust. Make very small movements in the height of the router bit and test cut again. When the fit is properly adjusted, make the end cuts on the rails. Double check the fit occasionally, to insure accuracy. The workpiece must always be fed against the cutter rotation and the full depth of profile should be made in one pass to ensure a precise cut. Rotate the board end for end, maintaining the face-down position and cut the other end. A clamping device may be necessary to keep the workpiece secured against the miter gauge. The position of the profile on the workpiece and variance in material thickness will also affect alignment. It is therefore very important that test material is milled to the same thickness as the finished material to ensure an accurate setup. Miter Extension Fence Moved Away from Cutter Figure C Step 3: Assembly The illustrations below show the typical style, rail and glass layout. Note the glazer’s points which secure the pane on the back side of the frame. They can be obtained from your local hardware store along with the putty needed to finish and seal window. Doors having more intricate designs such as arched, tombstone or curved panels should only be done when you are confident of your ability. If your project requires curved pieces then freehand routing using the bearing and starter pin will be necessary. Remember that it is important to work with good quality material and to insure that all pieces are machined the same and that all ends and edges are cut square. Follow all recommended safety procedures and always test the setup using sample pieces. Gap Glass Pane Glazer's Putty Point 529003622 © May 2003 Grizzly Industrial, Inc. ...

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